On a recent business trip to various Asian countries I was fortunate enough to have some time for birding in Singapore. I spent a few hours one morning in strictly urban areas, then had a full day (dawn to dusk) birding with the assistance of a local guide. Part 1 of this report is a general description and logistics. Part 2 is a narrative of my actual birding time. Part 3 is an annotated bird list. Latin names appear only in Part 3.
Singapore is an excellent choice for a first look at South-East Asian birds. The city is very easy to get around in. There are many, but not too many, birds. English is widely spoken. The food and culture are wonderful. Singapore is a true crossroads of the world. It would be an excellent choice for a family or couple with both birders and non-birders. Those with more time or experience can find close access to other birding destinations (e.g. Johor in Peninsular Malaysia).
Recommended resources for Singapore include MacKinnon and Phillipps, A Field Guide to the Birds of Borneo, Sumatra and Java (virtually all birds--and certainly the common ones--are illustrated here); Briffett and Supari, The Birds of Singapore (a small illustrated guide showing the common birds only, but very specific to Singapore and with an excellent complete checklist attached); the Lonely Planet guide titled Singapore ( a slim volume with thorough coverage of hotels, restaurants, getting around, etc.). I also consulted, but left at home, a borrowed copy of Davison and Chew, A Photographic Guide to Birds of Peninsular Malaysia and Singapore (nice pictures of some species, excellent habitat descriptions), and Keith Taylor's Checklist of Malaysian and Singapore Birds. Good maps are published by Nelles (OK) and Periplus (better, but hard to find in the US--easy in Singapore).
Also helpful was Hugh Dingle's report on a similar single guided day in Singapore, in the ABA Foreign Field Note Series #N-123 (helpful list of birds seen, resources, and--most importantly--a strong recommendation of the services of Mr. R. Subaraj as a guide).
The company put me in a nice business hotel near Raffles. I couldn't have afforded it on my own, but there are more economical alternatives in the same general area. The Lonely Planet guide has the details. My location did make it easy to get to Fort Canning Park, a good short-period birding destination (more below).
I am usually of the "do-it-yourself" school of birding, for reasons both financial and temperamental. I have birded in Hong Kong, and less thoroughly in Tokyo, but never in South-East Asia proper. Sadly, I only had one full day to devote to birding. Fortunately, with the generous assistance of my brother John I was able to make an exception this time and hire a guide. Mr. R. Subaraj is a first rate guide for the Singapore and Malaysia region. His advertisements were familiar to me from Birding Magazine. In his ABA notes High Dingle strongly recommends Mr. Subaraj. I can now concur: Mr. Subaraj is knowledgeable, well organized, and very pleasant to be around. I also give him my highest recommendation.
A guide is certainly not mandatory in Singapore, but doing it on your own without prior experience could pose some problems, especially for those with limited time. Public transportation in Singapore is generally very good, but not necessarily to the best birding areas. Most of the more remote (and some of the best) areas either have no or very infrequent bus service Renting your own car is possible, but reportedly very expensive. Hiring a taxi for the day could work well, and would probably cost only a little more than the car rental, and without all the bother of navigation. Also, birding conditions change frequently in Singapore. The pace of "development" is incredibly rapid, and the balance of power between "developers" and environmentalists is heavily weighted toward destruction of increasingly scarce wildlife habitat. Many of yesterday's great birding destinations are now paved, ploughed or the site of a new luxury shopping mall. Other factors are the location and recognition or species, both infinitely easier with a guide. Ultimately it's a personal decision.
One do-it-yourself strategy would be to forego the lure of the long list of birds in Singapore, and just select one or possibly two good areas (e.g. morning in the Catchment area forest, and afternoon at Singei Buloh Nature Park). You wouldn't see as many birds as I report on here, and you would have many more hours of confusion and interesting and unidentifiable bird sounds, but you would be in lovely areas and see many, many bird species, perhaps 50 or so (more if you have some experience with birds of this area).
Friday, June 1, 2007
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Singapore Istana
Care to meet the President in his home? If you’re lucky, you just might! The Istana (or “palace” in Malay) is the official residence of the President of Singapore and just five times a year, its gates are open to members of the public.
Built on an old nutmeg plantation, the Istana was the former official residence of the representative of the British Crown. Classical in style, the Istana is a magnificent building with multiple design influences, from the ornate Victorian Renaissance to the Roman Classical, with Gothic, Chinese and Malay touches. The sprawling grounds and manicured gardens contain rare plants lovingly cared for by superintendents of the Singapore Botanic Gardens.
Built on an old nutmeg plantation, the Istana was the former official residence of the representative of the British Crown. Classical in style, the Istana is a magnificent building with multiple design influences, from the ornate Victorian Renaissance to the Roman Classical, with Gothic, Chinese and Malay touches. The sprawling grounds and manicured gardens contain rare plants lovingly cared for by superintendents of the Singapore Botanic Gardens.
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Singapore Facts
Singapore - The Facts
Area: 255 square miles
Population: 4 million
Language: There are four official languages. Malay is the national language, English the official government administrative language, Mandarin and Tamil are also spoken. Most Singaporeans are bilingual and English is widely understood.
Currency: Singapore dollar.
Weather: Hot and humid. The daily temperature is between 23 and 31 degrees centigrade and the average humidity is 84 %.
Chewing gum cannot be brought into Singapore, even for personal use. It was banned because of the mess it creates. Eating on public transport, dropping litter and smoking in public places are all fineable offences. This is a clean and well ordered place.
The Singapore Sling is made up of are gin, Cointreau, cherry brandy, Benedictine, pineapple juice, Grenadine, Angoustura bitters and limes. It was first served in 1915 at the Raffles Hotel.
More babies are born in October than any other month of the year.
English is the most commonly used language but the national anthem 'Majulah Singapura' is sung in Malay.
Area: 255 square miles
Population: 4 million
Language: There are four official languages. Malay is the national language, English the official government administrative language, Mandarin and Tamil are also spoken. Most Singaporeans are bilingual and English is widely understood.
Currency: Singapore dollar.
Weather: Hot and humid. The daily temperature is between 23 and 31 degrees centigrade and the average humidity is 84 %.
Chewing gum cannot be brought into Singapore, even for personal use. It was banned because of the mess it creates. Eating on public transport, dropping litter and smoking in public places are all fineable offences. This is a clean and well ordered place.
The Singapore Sling is made up of are gin, Cointreau, cherry brandy, Benedictine, pineapple juice, Grenadine, Angoustura bitters and limes. It was first served in 1915 at the Raffles Hotel.
More babies are born in October than any other month of the year.
English is the most commonly used language but the national anthem 'Majulah Singapura' is sung in Malay.
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Best time to visit Singapore
When to Go
A steady supply of business travelers keep occupancy rates high year round in Singapore, however, some hotels report that business travel gets sluggish during the months of July and August, when they target the leisure market more aggressively. This is probably your best time to negotiate a favorable rate. Peak season for travel falls between December and June, with "super-peak" beginning in mid-December and lasting through the Chinese Lunar New Year, which falls in January or February, depending on the moon's cycle. During this season, Asian travel routes are booked solid and hotels are maxed out. Favorable deals are rare, because most of Asia takes annual leave at this time.
The Chinese Lunar New Year presents problems and opportunities for travelers. On the one hand, it's the biggest holiday for the Chinese, who make up the majority of Singaporeans, so you'll get a chance to see fun street markets, festive decorations, curious traditions, and the popular Chingay Parade. On the other hand, in the weeks leading up to the holiday, prices for everyday items are grossly inflated -- don't shop before Chinese New Year! -- and Chinatown turns into a swarming sea of panic stricken last-minute shoppers. Then on the first day of the holiday, virtually everything Chinese closes -- eateries, shops, businesses. Forget about it! Most reopen on the third day of the holiday, but many choose to stay closed for the full 2 weeks, the traditional amount of time for Chinese to observe this holiday. Not to fear! If you're in Singapore for the holiday, your hotel will still be serving meals, and you can always trek down to Little India or Kampong Gelam for some tasty Indian or Malay eats.
As for weather, because Singapore is 137km (82 miles) north of the equator, you can pretty much guarantee that it's hot. In terms of seasonal variations, you've got some months that are not as warm as others, but for the most part, they're all still hot.
What does vary greatly is rainfall. Singapore lies between two monsoon winds. The Northeast Monsoon arrives the beginning of November and stays until mid-March, when temperatures are slightly cooler, relatively speaking, than other times of the year. The heaviest rainfall occurs between November and January, with daily showers that sometimes last for long periods of time; at other times, it comes down in short heavy gusts and goes quickly away. Wind speeds are rarely anything more than light. The Southwest Monsoon falls between June and September. Temperatures are much higher and, interestingly, it's during this time of year that Singapore gets the least rain (with the very least reported in July).
By in large, year-round temperatures remain uniform, with a daily average of 81°F (27°C), afternoon temperatures reaching as high as 87°F (31°C), and an average sunrise temperature as low as 75°F (24°C). Relative humidity often exceeds 90% at night and in the early morning. Even on a "dry" afternoon, don't expect it to drop much below 60%. (The daily average is 84% relative humidity.)
Holidays
In recent years Singapore has also been building up the Chingay Parade, a colorful procession of floats, marching bands, acrobats and dancers, martial artists, and stilt-walkers who perform en parade through the downtown area. Contact the STB to find out which day they will host the parade during your visit. There are 11 official public holidays: New Year's Day (Jan 1), Hari Raya Haji (Jan 10 and Dec 31, 2006; and Dec 20, 2007), Chinese New Year (Jan 29, 2006; Feb 18, 2007) or Lunar New Year (2 days), Good Friday, Labour Day, Vesak Day (May 22, 2005; May 12, 2006; and May 1, 2007), National Day, Hari Raya Puasa (Nov 3, 2005; Oct 24, 2006; and Oct 13, 2007), Deepavali (Nov 1, 2005; Oct 21, 2006; and Nov 9, 2007), and Christmas Day (Dec 25). On these days, expect government offices, banks, and some shops to be closed.
Ringing in the New Year, Chinese-Style--Chinese New Year, a 15-day celebration of the new year according to the lunar calendar, is the most important festival of the Chinese culture and a huge occasion in Singapore. It was originally called Chun Kie, or Spring Festival, to celebrate the passing of winter and spring's promise of a fertile and prosperous growing season. In modern times, it's still seen as a chance to put the past behind and start afresh, with new hopes for prosperity, health, and luck. During the celebration, homes and businesses display large red banners with the characters Gong Xi Fa Cai, which mean "Wishing you great prosperity." You'll also witness lion dances outside businesses to attract good luck, staged by troupes of young men who don the traditional lion costume and perform an age-old dance to accompanying drum and cymbal clashes.
Outside private homes, the Chinese hang the character fu, which means luck. The fu is usually hung upside down because in Chinese the words for "luck upside down" sound similar to the words "luck arrives." Red, the most auspicious color according to the Chinese, is predominant in banners and is the color of hong bao, packets of money given to children and single young adults by parents and married friends. Oranges and tangerines are given as gifts, symbolizing gold and luck both in their colors and according to Chinese puns. Also important are noisy firecrackers, which are believed to ward off evil spirits and serve (through their noise) as a sign of life. Unfortunately, firecrackers are banned in Singapore, so you won't find much of that going on.
New Year's Day, the first day of celebration, can fall anywhere between mid-January to end of February. In preparation for New Year's Day, the Chinese pay off old debts, because debt is believed to lead to bad luck in the coming year if not taken care of, and clean their homes, sweeping the floors in a symbolic clearing away of old misfortunes. All cleaning is done before New Year's Day because to sweep on this day would be to clear away good luck. Most go so far as to hide the broom. New Year's Eve is the night of the Reunion Dinner, where family members put on bright new clothes (red colors are best), get together, and invite the spirits of deceased ancestors to gather for a meal. The central dish of the feast is the yu sheng, a raw fish salad. Once placed on the table, everyone gathers around the yu sheng, digs in with their chopsticks, and tosses the salad high -- the higher you toss the better your luck.
If you are visiting Singapore around Chinese New Year, there are a few things to note. Shopping leading up to the holiday is insane. The streets of Chinatown are a mob scene, with people chasing last minute holiday goodies. Crowds are thick and queues are long. Prices are also inflated for things like haircuts, clothing, traditional foods, and decorations -- not a good time to come looking for bargains.
On Chinese New Year's Eve, most businesses let their staff off early to prepare for the Reunion Dinner -- this is when crowds are thickest. However, expect Singapore to be a ghost town on the first and second days of the new year, when almost all local businesses, including restaurants, are closed tight. Although folks spend the first and second days visiting friends and family, the third is considered unlucky for socializing, so most return to work. Still, many "Mom and Pop" businesses use this time to take annual leave and will close for a full 15 days. If you find yourself in Singapore during this time, don't panic. Hotel restaurants are always open, and, if worse comes to worst, there's always the ethnic Indian and Malay enclaves at Little India and Kampong Gelam for good food and shopping!
A steady supply of business travelers keep occupancy rates high year round in Singapore, however, some hotels report that business travel gets sluggish during the months of July and August, when they target the leisure market more aggressively. This is probably your best time to negotiate a favorable rate. Peak season for travel falls between December and June, with "super-peak" beginning in mid-December and lasting through the Chinese Lunar New Year, which falls in January or February, depending on the moon's cycle. During this season, Asian travel routes are booked solid and hotels are maxed out. Favorable deals are rare, because most of Asia takes annual leave at this time.
The Chinese Lunar New Year presents problems and opportunities for travelers. On the one hand, it's the biggest holiday for the Chinese, who make up the majority of Singaporeans, so you'll get a chance to see fun street markets, festive decorations, curious traditions, and the popular Chingay Parade. On the other hand, in the weeks leading up to the holiday, prices for everyday items are grossly inflated -- don't shop before Chinese New Year! -- and Chinatown turns into a swarming sea of panic stricken last-minute shoppers. Then on the first day of the holiday, virtually everything Chinese closes -- eateries, shops, businesses. Forget about it! Most reopen on the third day of the holiday, but many choose to stay closed for the full 2 weeks, the traditional amount of time for Chinese to observe this holiday. Not to fear! If you're in Singapore for the holiday, your hotel will still be serving meals, and you can always trek down to Little India or Kampong Gelam for some tasty Indian or Malay eats.
As for weather, because Singapore is 137km (82 miles) north of the equator, you can pretty much guarantee that it's hot. In terms of seasonal variations, you've got some months that are not as warm as others, but for the most part, they're all still hot.
What does vary greatly is rainfall. Singapore lies between two monsoon winds. The Northeast Monsoon arrives the beginning of November and stays until mid-March, when temperatures are slightly cooler, relatively speaking, than other times of the year. The heaviest rainfall occurs between November and January, with daily showers that sometimes last for long periods of time; at other times, it comes down in short heavy gusts and goes quickly away. Wind speeds are rarely anything more than light. The Southwest Monsoon falls between June and September. Temperatures are much higher and, interestingly, it's during this time of year that Singapore gets the least rain (with the very least reported in July).
By in large, year-round temperatures remain uniform, with a daily average of 81°F (27°C), afternoon temperatures reaching as high as 87°F (31°C), and an average sunrise temperature as low as 75°F (24°C). Relative humidity often exceeds 90% at night and in the early morning. Even on a "dry" afternoon, don't expect it to drop much below 60%. (The daily average is 84% relative humidity.)
Holidays
In recent years Singapore has also been building up the Chingay Parade, a colorful procession of floats, marching bands, acrobats and dancers, martial artists, and stilt-walkers who perform en parade through the downtown area. Contact the STB to find out which day they will host the parade during your visit. There are 11 official public holidays: New Year's Day (Jan 1), Hari Raya Haji (Jan 10 and Dec 31, 2006; and Dec 20, 2007), Chinese New Year (Jan 29, 2006; Feb 18, 2007) or Lunar New Year (2 days), Good Friday, Labour Day, Vesak Day (May 22, 2005; May 12, 2006; and May 1, 2007), National Day, Hari Raya Puasa (Nov 3, 2005; Oct 24, 2006; and Oct 13, 2007), Deepavali (Nov 1, 2005; Oct 21, 2006; and Nov 9, 2007), and Christmas Day (Dec 25). On these days, expect government offices, banks, and some shops to be closed.
Ringing in the New Year, Chinese-Style--Chinese New Year, a 15-day celebration of the new year according to the lunar calendar, is the most important festival of the Chinese culture and a huge occasion in Singapore. It was originally called Chun Kie, or Spring Festival, to celebrate the passing of winter and spring's promise of a fertile and prosperous growing season. In modern times, it's still seen as a chance to put the past behind and start afresh, with new hopes for prosperity, health, and luck. During the celebration, homes and businesses display large red banners with the characters Gong Xi Fa Cai, which mean "Wishing you great prosperity." You'll also witness lion dances outside businesses to attract good luck, staged by troupes of young men who don the traditional lion costume and perform an age-old dance to accompanying drum and cymbal clashes.
Outside private homes, the Chinese hang the character fu, which means luck. The fu is usually hung upside down because in Chinese the words for "luck upside down" sound similar to the words "luck arrives." Red, the most auspicious color according to the Chinese, is predominant in banners and is the color of hong bao, packets of money given to children and single young adults by parents and married friends. Oranges and tangerines are given as gifts, symbolizing gold and luck both in their colors and according to Chinese puns. Also important are noisy firecrackers, which are believed to ward off evil spirits and serve (through their noise) as a sign of life. Unfortunately, firecrackers are banned in Singapore, so you won't find much of that going on.
New Year's Day, the first day of celebration, can fall anywhere between mid-January to end of February. In preparation for New Year's Day, the Chinese pay off old debts, because debt is believed to lead to bad luck in the coming year if not taken care of, and clean their homes, sweeping the floors in a symbolic clearing away of old misfortunes. All cleaning is done before New Year's Day because to sweep on this day would be to clear away good luck. Most go so far as to hide the broom. New Year's Eve is the night of the Reunion Dinner, where family members put on bright new clothes (red colors are best), get together, and invite the spirits of deceased ancestors to gather for a meal. The central dish of the feast is the yu sheng, a raw fish salad. Once placed on the table, everyone gathers around the yu sheng, digs in with their chopsticks, and tosses the salad high -- the higher you toss the better your luck.
If you are visiting Singapore around Chinese New Year, there are a few things to note. Shopping leading up to the holiday is insane. The streets of Chinatown are a mob scene, with people chasing last minute holiday goodies. Crowds are thick and queues are long. Prices are also inflated for things like haircuts, clothing, traditional foods, and decorations -- not a good time to come looking for bargains.
On Chinese New Year's Eve, most businesses let their staff off early to prepare for the Reunion Dinner -- this is when crowds are thickest. However, expect Singapore to be a ghost town on the first and second days of the new year, when almost all local businesses, including restaurants, are closed tight. Although folks spend the first and second days visiting friends and family, the third is considered unlucky for socializing, so most return to work. Still, many "Mom and Pop" businesses use this time to take annual leave and will close for a full 15 days. If you find yourself in Singapore during this time, don't panic. Hotel restaurants are always open, and, if worse comes to worst, there's always the ethnic Indian and Malay enclaves at Little India and Kampong Gelam for good food and shopping!
Monday, May 28, 2007
Singapore Guide
Malaysia Vacation guide is your one stop source of trusted updated information to Visit Malaysia.
That's right! In Singapore, you can go on a taxi tour conducted by taxi drivers who are also qualified licensed tourist guides. A first of its kind in Asia, taxi tours offer you a completely customised visit to Singapore with personal attention by some of the best informal travel guides around – taxi drivers!
Visit the sights along the Singapore River, or take in the view of the world-renowned Esplanade - Theatres on the Bay. Sample local dishes like satay (barbecued meat on skewers) or laksa (noodles in spicy coconut broth), or experience our culturally diverse heartlands where the locals live, work and play – the choice is yours!
These taxi tours can be easily booked through the taxi companies' hotline, hotel tour desks or travel agencies.
That's right! In Singapore, you can go on a taxi tour conducted by taxi drivers who are also qualified licensed tourist guides. A first of its kind in Asia, taxi tours offer you a completely customised visit to Singapore with personal attention by some of the best informal travel guides around – taxi drivers!
Visit the sights along the Singapore River, or take in the view of the world-renowned Esplanade - Theatres on the Bay. Sample local dishes like satay (barbecued meat on skewers) or laksa (noodles in spicy coconut broth), or experience our culturally diverse heartlands where the locals live, work and play – the choice is yours!
These taxi tours can be easily booked through the taxi companies' hotline, hotel tour desks or travel agencies.
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Singapore Adventure
Adventure in Singapore
Looking for a tour? contact us
Adventure in Singapore
Singapore, an amazing and fascinating island, offers an array of exciting adventure sports. Adventure in Singapore means non-stop fun and full enjoyment for the people of all ages. The island nation is an ideal destination for those who want to get their adrenalin pumped. The naturally rich, traditionally rooted and ultra-modern nation is just the place where one wants to go for that unforgettable experience.
Water Sports
Singapore has several popular water sports. Round-the-island canoe trips are part of fashion, as are the thrills and spills of water-skiing, windsurfing and sailing. Canoeing is also very popular and several private operators provide hiring facilities for canoes. Most of them are located at Sentosa Island, East Coast Park and Changi Point.
Scuba diving is another popular diving sport. Most local diving schools offer courses sanctioned by internationally acclaimed scuba-diving associations. Sports like windsurfing, sailing and water skiing are also conducted by many private operators.
Other Outdoor Sports
Cycling is the favorite recreational-cum-exercise activity on the island. Cycling paths connect several parts of the island. Adventurous forms of cycling like mountain or dirt biking are also in vogue. Bicycles can be hired at several popular places like Sentosa and East Coast Park.
Another popular sport is golf. Several world-class golf courses are scattered across the island. Golf lovers touring the island never forget to have a game or two of golf in these sprawling courses.
Horse Racing is also liked by the Singaporeans. Singapore Race Course at Kranji is a favorite spot for the lovers of the sport. Visitors have to follow a strict dress code in the public stands, but the dress code for the Hibiscus Room is smart casual.
Looking for a tour? contact us
Adventure in Singapore
Singapore, an amazing and fascinating island, offers an array of exciting adventure sports. Adventure in Singapore means non-stop fun and full enjoyment for the people of all ages. The island nation is an ideal destination for those who want to get their adrenalin pumped. The naturally rich, traditionally rooted and ultra-modern nation is just the place where one wants to go for that unforgettable experience.
Water Sports
Singapore has several popular water sports. Round-the-island canoe trips are part of fashion, as are the thrills and spills of water-skiing, windsurfing and sailing. Canoeing is also very popular and several private operators provide hiring facilities for canoes. Most of them are located at Sentosa Island, East Coast Park and Changi Point.
Scuba diving is another popular diving sport. Most local diving schools offer courses sanctioned by internationally acclaimed scuba-diving associations. Sports like windsurfing, sailing and water skiing are also conducted by many private operators.
Other Outdoor Sports
Cycling is the favorite recreational-cum-exercise activity on the island. Cycling paths connect several parts of the island. Adventurous forms of cycling like mountain or dirt biking are also in vogue. Bicycles can be hired at several popular places like Sentosa and East Coast Park.
Another popular sport is golf. Several world-class golf courses are scattered across the island. Golf lovers touring the island never forget to have a game or two of golf in these sprawling courses.
Horse Racing is also liked by the Singaporeans. Singapore Race Course at Kranji is a favorite spot for the lovers of the sport. Visitors have to follow a strict dress code in the public stands, but the dress code for the Hibiscus Room is smart casual.
Saturday, May 26, 2007
Singapore Travel Tales
The problem with underfunded short trips to Singapore is they reinforce just how many bars there are that need to be added and after 19 were added on this trip, plenty more supping options presented themselves for future visits.
So a board meeting was called, a budget allocated low on dollars, nil on sense, and Soppy packed his toothbrush and sent on his way with the explicit instruction of get drinking. Which commences in Surabaya where the not so discerning one gets so ratted in a bout of rapid fire elbow bending he gets home late from Jatim Club and in the rush to the airport forgets to take his contact numbers for the city state...
He does manage to take his plane tix and passport so we can be grateful for that and Saturday afternoon sees him in Seah Street entering the Lot Stock and Barrel where the punters are transfixed by the egg chasers on the wall mounted TV. Mostly English fans in watching the game, Soppy finds a quiet corner and nurses his beer and fading hangover, talk of hookers goes over his head and he refrains from commenting about the Leeds United memorobillia on the walls.
Next up is the uninspiring SportzBallz a couple of doors down. The LSB is your Sporting Life, a packet of Woodbines, flat caps, fish n chips with fart enducing mushy peas and lashings of ginger pop while SportzBallz is a glitzy Tatler wannabee where even the punters seemed embarrassed and wished they were elsewhere. The neon lit, back lit bar seemed incongrous on what is effectively the tradesmans entrance to the plush Raffles and sits apologetically among the admittedly tastefully renovated, but decidely low key, shop houses on this narrow street.
It had been a good while since Soppy had last darkened the door of Muddy Murphys,and given the number of cyber suppers visiting the bar on this site it was high time another visit was in order. It was from here that all started to go down hill.
The MRT to Orchard was fine, super effecient, clean, all the cliches you want about Singapore but Soppy managed to misread the signs on the way out and got himself lost in the interminable alleyways of these multi story souks that act as a magnet to credit cards around the world. The exit signs seemed to lead to yet more shoe shops and pokey little outlets selling handphone accessories...how many different press on pads can you buy for one model?
He began feeling positively claustrophibic as his frantic efforts to escape came to naught and the humiliation was too great to seek assistance. As he contemplated a life within the confines of shite piped music and bawling brats yelling 'ai yah' he was finally vomitted out into an Orchard Road that prided itself on it's non Asianess.
Singapore of course is a small island hanging off the sole of the South East Asian peninsula and within easy reach of the Indonesian archipeligo stretching across the ocean out to the Pacific.
The people in the main in this area are Muslim, trading links with Arabia got back a mighty long time, but Singapore, a state built on trade bucks the trend. The vast majority of the population are Chinese. An island in a sea of Islam, Soppy's visit coincided with the final weekend of the fasting season of Ramadhan with the eid ul Fitri festival up coming, a holiday on a par with the Christian Christmas - a time to be with the family etc...
A time of fasting and donating zakat, a kind of charity for the poor, has great significance in the Muslim calander but all is suspended on Orchard Road as Mammon replaces Allah and the Prophet Mohammed is usurped by image consultants and advertising agents dreaming up novel ways of extracting the plastic from your back pocket.
This was the world Soppy, gagging for an ale, found himself, buffeted back and forth like a small dhow in a tempest as people of all hues and shapes elbowed past without so much as a by your leave, intent only in their own little sms world...one little begger propped against a wall, arms outstretched seeking alms but receiving just the cooling draught of thousand shoppers with eyes elsewhere.
Humanity had gone on vacation, the last thing Soppy really wanted was 3 Monkeys on the ground floor of the 4 floors, where ladies of the nite conspire to empty a man's gonads and open his purse strings in a sleazy cocktail of dark lights, cold beer and loud music.
With relief, he stumbled down the steps into Muddy Murphys. Straight into a battlefield! The game long over, England victorious, a few bedraggled stragglers told the tale...mucho chest chest thumping, swing low sweet chariots rent the humid night as beer gathered in cracks on the ground. The tables smelt of stale ale but the Barmy Army cared not one iota. And Soppy did not begrudge them their moment. Having done his bit for England's football and cricket teams on overseas tours, it was nice to actually see a team bloody win something.
Thus ended the aperetif if you will. A few hours later and the research would begin in ernest. For now, it was time for somezzz's...
So a board meeting was called, a budget allocated low on dollars, nil on sense, and Soppy packed his toothbrush and sent on his way with the explicit instruction of get drinking. Which commences in Surabaya where the not so discerning one gets so ratted in a bout of rapid fire elbow bending he gets home late from Jatim Club and in the rush to the airport forgets to take his contact numbers for the city state...
He does manage to take his plane tix and passport so we can be grateful for that and Saturday afternoon sees him in Seah Street entering the Lot Stock and Barrel where the punters are transfixed by the egg chasers on the wall mounted TV. Mostly English fans in watching the game, Soppy finds a quiet corner and nurses his beer and fading hangover, talk of hookers goes over his head and he refrains from commenting about the Leeds United memorobillia on the walls.
Next up is the uninspiring SportzBallz a couple of doors down. The LSB is your Sporting Life, a packet of Woodbines, flat caps, fish n chips with fart enducing mushy peas and lashings of ginger pop while SportzBallz is a glitzy Tatler wannabee where even the punters seemed embarrassed and wished they were elsewhere. The neon lit, back lit bar seemed incongrous on what is effectively the tradesmans entrance to the plush Raffles and sits apologetically among the admittedly tastefully renovated, but decidely low key, shop houses on this narrow street.
It had been a good while since Soppy had last darkened the door of Muddy Murphys,and given the number of cyber suppers visiting the bar on this site it was high time another visit was in order. It was from here that all started to go down hill.
The MRT to Orchard was fine, super effecient, clean, all the cliches you want about Singapore but Soppy managed to misread the signs on the way out and got himself lost in the interminable alleyways of these multi story souks that act as a magnet to credit cards around the world. The exit signs seemed to lead to yet more shoe shops and pokey little outlets selling handphone accessories...how many different press on pads can you buy for one model?
He began feeling positively claustrophibic as his frantic efforts to escape came to naught and the humiliation was too great to seek assistance. As he contemplated a life within the confines of shite piped music and bawling brats yelling 'ai yah' he was finally vomitted out into an Orchard Road that prided itself on it's non Asianess.
Singapore of course is a small island hanging off the sole of the South East Asian peninsula and within easy reach of the Indonesian archipeligo stretching across the ocean out to the Pacific.
The people in the main in this area are Muslim, trading links with Arabia got back a mighty long time, but Singapore, a state built on trade bucks the trend. The vast majority of the population are Chinese. An island in a sea of Islam, Soppy's visit coincided with the final weekend of the fasting season of Ramadhan with the eid ul Fitri festival up coming, a holiday on a par with the Christian Christmas - a time to be with the family etc...
A time of fasting and donating zakat, a kind of charity for the poor, has great significance in the Muslim calander but all is suspended on Orchard Road as Mammon replaces Allah and the Prophet Mohammed is usurped by image consultants and advertising agents dreaming up novel ways of extracting the plastic from your back pocket.
This was the world Soppy, gagging for an ale, found himself, buffeted back and forth like a small dhow in a tempest as people of all hues and shapes elbowed past without so much as a by your leave, intent only in their own little sms world...one little begger propped against a wall, arms outstretched seeking alms but receiving just the cooling draught of thousand shoppers with eyes elsewhere.
Humanity had gone on vacation, the last thing Soppy really wanted was 3 Monkeys on the ground floor of the 4 floors, where ladies of the nite conspire to empty a man's gonads and open his purse strings in a sleazy cocktail of dark lights, cold beer and loud music.
With relief, he stumbled down the steps into Muddy Murphys. Straight into a battlefield! The game long over, England victorious, a few bedraggled stragglers told the tale...mucho chest chest thumping, swing low sweet chariots rent the humid night as beer gathered in cracks on the ground. The tables smelt of stale ale but the Barmy Army cared not one iota. And Soppy did not begrudge them their moment. Having done his bit for England's football and cricket teams on overseas tours, it was nice to actually see a team bloody win something.
Thus ended the aperetif if you will. A few hours later and the research would begin in ernest. For now, it was time for somezzz's...
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